Most specialist filmmakers pick out acquire premium quality DSLR steadicams and they indeed work effectively. Nonetheless, one of the most steadicams will cost you various hundred dollars. So you can think about making a single by oneself with $25 in hardware shop parts.
I also obtain an excellent report. I'll share it with my web page visitors.
To begin with, we should prepare enough materials:
1. four computer aluminum (or other) tubing with a matching diameter Drill bit. On my rig, the brief rails are 8 1/2" as well as the lengthy rails are 22 1/2" but you could adjust this to greatest fit your need to have.
2.1 Ikea Boholmen plastic cutting board or equivalent
three. two bicycle hand grips
four. Many smaller screws or nuts and bolts with drill bit (and tap if desired) to match
five. A tiny piece of foam for the shoulder pad, if desired
The initial rig was intended to be metric and use the common 15mm x 60mm rod configuration, sadly 15mm supplies might not be easy to uncover. If you fail to locate the important rods, you could alter them all to 5/8". In fact, the move shows my operate with 5/8" tubes as I failed to discover 15mm tubes.
The Handles
To create the handles cut out the two little hockey stick shaped pieces within the diagram. Those pieces have two 60mm apart 15mm holes in order that they would fit over the outer two rods on every side of your mount. The handles are just wide enough to ensure that the bicycle grips would fit on them extremely snugly. If this really is too snugly for the grips, sand the hockey sticks a bit.
The Frame
The initial element to be cut may be the two long pieces for the 4-hole frames. (In fact my very first go was a 3 hole frame, but this didn't set the camera far enough over for the left to line up the Z-finder with my eye. In the video it is possible to see me working on the 3 hole version in locations...)
With the lengthy pieces cut out, (be sure to make them wide sufficient that there's a great level of plastic remaining around the holes) discover the center line of each with the two frame pieces and mark the center points in the 4 holes as accurately as possible. These two frames should line up specifically to ensure that the tubes fit and keep good and parallel.
In the event you do not have a calipers, you can drill the two frame pieces simultaneously stacked one on prime on the other. You could even make them longer than required and screw them with each other so that you realize the holes are dead-on correct. Then when the holes are drilled you could unscrew the pieces and trim away the screw holes.See the image beneath for a lot more facts
Cut out each of the remaining frame pieces using a smaller band-saw. Chances are you are going to be left with seriously rough edges. Lightly sand every piece in order that every little thing would possess a clean and smooth professional appear.
When I you've got the 2 4-hole frame pieces completed you may assemble the short rods and longer rods together in the frame to test the alignment.
The holes I drilled with my 5/8" paddle bit were an exact match for the 5/8" tubing which produced the frame fit pretty snugly with no any screws. (The image below has the plate and shoulder pieces on, but if really should give you an excellent idea on how the rods and frame interact.
The Shoulder Piece
Subsequent you'll want to tackle the shoulder piece.
I wanted some thing that mounted for the rods by means of two holes like the rest of the frame, so I came up using the s-shape thought which ended up working really well.
Cut out the 14" lengthy piece of plastic and drill two holes having a 60mm spacing at one particular finish.
Then bent this piece in to the final shape by heating it really slowly more than a gas stove. You've got to complete this Pretty slowly or else you might melt or burn the plastic. It took a couple of minutes of slow heating, but by heating a little bit, then bending a little, then heating just a little far more, and bending just a little much more etc. you may sooner or later got the desired S shape.
When you have the correct bend, ran the plastic below the faucet to cool it down and set the curve. This mate take some time and fiddling to get suitable. One of the perks of making the curve correct, is considering that the shoulder piece is mounted devoid of any screws, it is adjustable.
The Mounting Plate
Actually, the plate is just a little rectangle piece of the cutting board that you simply ought to screw to the two shorter rods. It is possible to do that with four tiny screws. Every single on the four holes is countersunk in order that the screw heads are flush with all the surface of your plastic mounting plate. You can tap the holes in the tubing too in order that the screws would thread into the rods. In case you use a sizable adequate screw you *may* be capable of skip the threading approach, or you may drill all the way by means of the tubes and put a washer and nut on the underside. (However, taping offered the cleaner and additional experienced look, so I did the extra function of threading the holes)
With the mounting plate securely in location, use a piece of paper plus a pencil to trace the hole pattern from the bottom of the camera and transfer that to the mounting plate.
Subsequent drill two 1/4" holes inside the plate. There is some logic towards the spot of creating those holes on the plate.
You wish to be certain that when your camera is screwed towards the rig that you just can still access the battery by way of the space in between 2 rods. Take the time to produce cautious measurements so the holes on the plastic piece do not align the battery door inside a position where you may not remove the battery.
As for making two holes right here is my observation: I also noticed that if I only mounted the camera with 1 screw in the center hole that it could rotate slightly bit even when the screw was tightened as tight as you possibly can. Considering that my Zacuto base-plate has 4 mounting screw holes, I added a second mounting screw to help keep the camera good and straight. In case you only have the center hole, a smaller piece of black rubber or enjoyable foam glued to the best of the mounting plate may be enough to get a secure grip and prevent any rotation.
Just after you finish all of this, you'll possess a diy DSLR shoulder rig, why not possess a try?
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